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Glossary (A - M)

INGREDIENTS GLOSSARY (A to M)

A  B  C  D  E  F  G  H  I  J  K  L  M

A

Almond Oil (Sweet)
INCI Name:- Prunus Amygdalus

Obtained from the seed of the Almond Tree. Main suppliers are
the Mediterranean, SW Asia, China, Japan, California and Australia.
A mild, non-irritating oil that is easily absorbed by the skin leaving it soft, smooth and supple.

Aloe Vera Concentrate
INCI Name:- Aloe Vera

Obtained from the whole leaf which is organically grown and cold-pressed. Main supplier is Mexico.
Is excellent as a pain reliever, antiseptic and healing agent. Consequently it is good for exzema and will help heal burns, sunburn and cuts.

Antioxidants
During normal cellular metabolism, oxygen creates damaging by-products called Free Radicals which have an increasingly bad effect on our skin as we grow older i.e. age us through creation of wrinkles.
Antioxidants protect the cells from the damage caused by Free Radicals by binding with them before they can cause the damage. Antioxidants are found in Vitamins A, C and E as well as many fruits, vegetables and oils.

Apricot Kernel Oil
INCI Name:- Prunus Armeniaca

Obtained from the kernel of the Apricot fruit which contains 40-50% oil. Parts of Asia and California are the main suppliers.
A mild oil that spreads well and is easily absorbed. Excellent for dry and sensitive skin.

Astringent
A substance that stretches the skin thus easing out wrinkles and helps keep the skin looking young.

Avocado Oil
INCI Name:- Persea Gratissima

Pressed from the dried fruit pulp of the Avocado Tree. Main suppliers are South Africa, Brazil, Mexico, California, West Indies and Israel.
A mild, nourishing, semi-fatty oil that is rich in vitamins. It spreads well on the skin and is absorbed quickly and thoroughly. Great for healing damaged skin.


 

B
Basil
INCI Name:- Ocimum Basilicum

An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main suppliers are Madagascar, Nepal and Australia.
Has a warm and spicy aroma. Helps to concentrate and is a good muscle relaxent.

Beeswax
INCI Name:- Cera Flava

Is a mix of plant wax, pollen and secretion from a gland of the bee. Main reputable suppliers are found in Sweden where production is well monitored.
Beeswax gives better protection than oils and fats because of the wax content. It is absorbed slowly by the skin and doesn't block pores. Soothes irritated skin.

Benzyl Alcohol
It is a natural alcohol. Is an anti bacterial agent and is used with Phenoxyethanol and Potassium Sorbate to form a gentle and eco friendly preservative.

Bergamot
INCI Name:- Citrus Bergamia

An essential oil obtained from the peel. Main supplier is Italy.
Has a citrus aroma with a floral/fruity undertone.
Has a calming and uplifting quality. Very good for oily skin and acne.

Betaine 30%
INCI Name:- *Cocoamidopropyl Betaine

Occurs naturally in sugar but is normally obtained from Coconut Butter.
Is an Amphoretic Detergent which makes it very gentle on the skin. Is also a Secondary Detergent which means it is not strong enough to use on its own.
Has a pH value of 6-7. Produces a fine foam. 98% biodegradable.

Black Pepper
INCI Name:- Piper Nigrum

An essential oil obtained from the peppercorns. Main supplier is Madagascar.
Has a delicate, sweet aroma with a floral/fruity undertone. Very good for oily skin and acne. Is a warming oil so is used for sports massage or for muscle fatigue.

Borage Oil or Starflower
INCI Name:- Borago Officinalis

Obtained from the seeds of the Borage plant (a flower with blue, star-shaped flowers hence the alternative name). The main suppliers are found throughout Europe, North Africa and North America.
Borage Oil has the highest concentration of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) of any oil thus making it excellent for face creams and massage oils.


C

 

Carrot Seed Oil
INCI Name:- Daucus Carota

Pressed from the seeds. Main suppliers are India and Hungary.
Carrots are highly nutritious plants rich in vitamins (particularly Vitamin A). It is an excellent ingredient for skin care preparations because it stimulates cell growth and removes toxins. It also improves the skin by adding tone and elasticity.

Cedarwood
INCI Name:- Cedrus Atlantica

An essential oil obtained from the wood. Main supplier is Morocco.
Has a woody, resinous aroma. Is an astringent on oily skin and has antiseptic properties.

Cetearyl Glycoside
INCI Name:- Cetearyl Glycoside

An Emulsifier that is very ethical as it doesn't use solvents or chemicals. It is made from vegetable-based components: glucose from corn and the fatty element from coconut.
It is ideal for making light creams, lotions and conditioners as it doesn't block the skin's pores.

Cetyl Alcohol
INCI Name:- Cetyl Alcohol

Obtained from Palm Kernel Oil Fatty Acid (Palmitic Acid) that has been treated with liquid gas so that the free oxygen atom has been removed.
It stabilises emulsification (Emulsifiers allow oil and water to mix) thus making creams and lotions firmer and giving them consistency. Helps make skin soft and smooth.

Chamomile Roman
INCI Name:- Anthemis Nobilis

An essential oil obtained from the flowers. Main supplier is France.
Has a smooth, sweet/apple aroma. Excellent for all types of skin care.

Citric Acid
Obtained naturally from lemons but is mostly produced synthetically.
It is mainly used as an acidity/pH regulator. Mixes well with water and alcohol.

Citronella
INCI Name:- Cymbopogon Winterianus

An essential oil obtained from grass. Main suppliers are Java and China.
Has a strong, sweet, lemony aroma. Is an excellent flying insect repellent.

Clary Sage
INCI Name:- Salvia Sclarea

An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main supplier is Russia.
Has a heady and euphoric aroma.
Has soothing properties and, when added to other oils, enhances their properties.

Coconut Butter
INCI Name:- Cocos Nucifera

Obtained from the coconut of palm trees. The main suppliers are found in Asia.
Has a slightly sweet taste and smell. It adds body when melted into Massage Oils.


D

 

Dead Sea Salt
INCI Name:- Sodium Chloride

Obtained from mineral salts found on the shore of the Dead Sea.
Helps relieve aches and pains and prevents stiffness after exercise. It releases toxic agents from the tissue, improves blood circulation and regulates the pH value of tissue.

Decyl Glucoside
INCI Name:- Decylglucoside

Obtained from glucose in corn.
Is an Amphoretic Detergent with similar properties to Betaine.

Detergents
These are a group of chemicals with an ability to loosen and lift fats and dirt from hair and skin releasing them into the water to be rinsed away. Our bodies secrete a special oil, sebum, to prevent the skin from drying out and to provide a protective barrier. Some detergents are very powerful, they remove this protective layer along with the dirt and can upset the natural balance of the skin causing it to feel 'stretched' and dry. Skin may become cracked and sore allowing infections to develop or leading to over-sensitivity and conditions for example eczema and dermatitis. We use small quantities of the most gentle detergents available so your skin and hair are cleansed but not stripped of protection.


 

E
Emulsifiers

These are essential if trying to mix oil and water. Creams and lotions need oil and water to be mixed so therefore need an emulsifier added.
We use only natural emulsifiers sourced from Coconut and Corn Oils.

Essential Oils
An Essential Oil is an aromatic, concentrated, volatile liquid. Although called oils they contain no fatty substances like true oils such as Almond Oil.
Being volatile they do not create oil stains. They occur in the cellular structures of plants and are extracted by cold pressing.
The yield per plant varies widely across the plant types, hence the varying costs of essential oils.
They are used in natural perfumes, for adding fragrance to Skin Care and Natural Products, and as a basis for the extraction of Hydrosols (Flower/Herbal Waters).

Eucalyptus
INCI Name:- Eucalyptus Radiata

An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main supplier is Australia.
Has a fresh, sharp aroma. Mildly astringent. Good for inhalation as has cleansing and clearing properties.

Evening Primrose Oil
INCI Name:- Oenothera Biennis

Cold pressed from the seeds. It is a dry, thin oil that is easily absorbed by the skin. Has a high content of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA), a substance the body needs to create Prostaglandins.
It is also a good source of Omega 3 & 6 Oils.


 

F
Fennel (Sweet)
INCI Name:- Foeniculum Vulgare

An essential oil obtained from the seeds. Main supplier is Egypt.
Has a sweet, warm, aniseed aroma. Has an effective cleansing and toning action.

Flower Waters
Synonyms are Hydrosols, Hydrolates and Herbal Waters.
These are created when essential oils are extracted by passing heated water as vapour through plant material to collect the oils. The oil is removed from the surface leaving a solution containing small quantities of oil and plant ingredients. These gentle waters retain the properties of the essential oils.

Frankincense
INCI Name:- Boswellia Carterii

An essential oil obtained from the resin. Main supplier is India.
Has a slightly spicy aroma with sweet undertones. Has rejuvenating and toning properties so is excellent for mature skin. Often used in meditation as is a calming oil.


 

G
Geranium
INCI Name:- Pelargonium Graveolens

An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main supplier is Egypt.
Has a mix of rose and citrus aroma. Stabilises the production of Sebum (an oil from the glands of the skin).
Consequently, is good for both dry and oily skin. Also stimulates the Lymphatic System so is good for treating cellulite.

Ginger
INCI Name:- Zingiber Officinale

An essential oil obtained from the root. Main supplier is India.
Has a fresh, spicy aroma. A warming and comforting oil useful for muscle fatigue.

GLA
INCI Name:- Gamma Linolenic Acid

Found naturally in oils. The body needs GLA to create Prostaglandins which are needed by the skin to enable it to function properly.
Prostaglandin Deficiency causes skin to age more quickly (becomes dry and wrinkled) and become more light-sensitive. Best source is Borage Oil which has the highest concentration of GLA of any of the oils.

Glycerine E422
INCI Name:- Glycerine

This is an alcohol produced during the digestion of fats. E422 contains 5-10% Glycerine and is used to retain moisture and as a softening agent. It is vegetable-based - NOT from the digestion of animal fats.

Glyceryl Monostearate
INCI Name:- Glyceryl Monostearate

This is a vegetable-based Emulsifier that is very ethical as it doesn't use solvents or chemicals. It is very good for making light creams.

Grapefruit
INCI Name:- Citrus Paradisi

An essential oil obtained from the peel. Main supplier is Australia.
Has a slightly sour but refreshing citrus aroma. Good for oily skin and acne. Helps break down cellulite.

Guar Gum
INCI Name:- Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba

The powder used is obtained from the seeds. Main suppliers are India and Pakistan.
It is used as a thickening agent and hair conditioner.


 

H
Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid gives skin its volume and fullness. The loss of Hyaluronic Acid over time contributes to wrinkles. Consequently, this ingredient is often used in Skin Care Products.
We use a variety obtained from a bacteria-based biofermentation process and NOT from a poultry source as other varieties are.


 

I
INCI Name

Signifies the International System for identifying ingredients in Cosmetics. These must be used for all product identification. With plant-based raw materials the INCI Name will be the latin or chemical name of the structure. By law, cosmetic and hygienic products MUST be labelled with a list of ingredients.
INCI is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients


 

J
Jasmine
INCI Name:- Jasminum Grandiflorum

An essential oil obtained from the flowers. Main suppliers are Egypt and Morocco.
Has a very sweet and floral aroma. Good for sensitive and very dry skin. Is warming and uplifting.

Jojoba Oil
INCI Name:- Buxus Chinensis

This oil is cold pressed from the evergreen bush seeds. Main suppliers are Arizona, California and Mexico.
It is actually a liquid wax not an oil. It has hardly any smell and is easily absorbed by the skin. It softens and protects the skin and helps it hold its moisture. Can be used on all skin types and is good for acne and eczema. It is also a good hair oil.


 

K


 

L
Lactic Acid E-270
INCI Name:- Lactic Acid

Occurs naturally and is also produced in the body. E-270 has a preservative effect and is used as a pH regulator in skin-care products i.e. regulates pH in products so that they have the same pH as skin (5.5). Can also be used to make creams and soaps runnier. Is also a moisturiser.

Lavender
INCI Name:- Lavendula Angustifolia

An essential oil obtained from the flowers. Main supplier is France.
Has a distinctive floral aroma. Excellent for all skin types. Used to treat mature, sunburnt, itchy skin and skin with acne.
Is an antiseptic. Also excellent as a relaxing agent (a few drops on your pillow will help you sleep) and is good for relieving stress, tension and nervousness.

Lemon
INCI Name:- Citrus Limonum

An essential oil obtained from the peel. Main suppliers are Argentina, Israel and Italy.
Has a fresh citrus aroma. Good for oily skin and acne. Is an antiseptic.

Lemongrass
INCI Name:- Cymbopogon Citratus

An essential oil obtained from grass. Main supplier is Sri Lanka.
Has a lemony aroma. Good as a deodoriser for the feet and is a good oil to use in a burner or to help repel insects. Not recommended to use neat on the face but is perfectly safe when distilled in a blend (as in our Grapefruit & Lemongrass range).

Lime
INCI Name:- Citrus Aurantifolia

An essential oil obtained from the peel. Main supplier is Australia.
Has a sweet, fruity aroma that lingers. Often used as a general body tonic as has cleansing properties.

Loofah
INCI Name:- Luffa Cylindrica

Is a vegetable, gourd-like plant of the cucumber family.
The outer layer of the plant is peeled off and the inside is de-seeded, washed and left to dry. Can then be used as an abrasive bath sponge or can be ground into flakes and used as an exfoliator in creams, gels and oils.


 

M
Mandarin
INCI Name:- Citrus Reticulata

An essential oil obtained from the peel. Main suppliers are Argentina, Israel and Italy.
Has a soft and warm citrus aroma with a hint of floral. Good for all skin types and because of its gentleness is ideal for children and the elderly.