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Glossary (N - Z)

INGREDIENTS GLOSSARY (N to Z)

N  O  P  Q  R  S  T  U  V  W  X  Y  Z

N
Neem Oil
INCI Name:- Melia Azadirata
This oil is cold pressed from the seeds. Main suppliers are Asia, Africa, South America and Oceania.
This oil is very smelly so is only used in very small quantities in skin-care products. Has anti-fungal properties. Good for easing arthritis and sprains, bruises and cuts. Is effective in regenerating dry and sensitive skin. The Neem leaf can be used for treating eczema and psoriasis.
Both the leaf and the seeds can be harvested from the Tree without causing the tree damage. Has insecticidal properties - Neem trees are often the only types of tree left untouched by a plague of locusts.


Neroli
INCI Name:- Citrus Aurantium
An essential oil obtained from the flowers of the Orange Tree. Main supplier is North Africa.
Has a warm, floral and slightly fruity aroma. Good for all skin types. Good for the complexion and excellent for the more mature skin. It is one of the most expensive and important oils used in skincare.


O
Olive Oil
INCI Name:- Olea Europeae
This oil is cold pressed from the Olive Tree's ripe fruit. Main suppliers are the Mediterranean and the Southwest USA.
This oil softens and protects the skin. It also improves blood circulation.


Orange (Bitter)
INCI Name:- Citrus Aurantium
An essential oil obtained from the peel.
Has a bright and refreshing aroma.


Orange (Sweet)
INCI Name:- Citrus Sinensis
An essential oil obtained from the peel. Main suppliers are Argentina, Israel and Italy.
Has a sweet, warm and citrus aroma. Good for mature skin and acne. Relaxes and is good for relieving tension and stress.


P
Palm Kernel Oil
INCI Name:- Elaeis Guineensis
Palm seed of the Oil Palm.
This oil is a solid, soft wax that has a high content of Lauric Acid which is ideal for using in washing agents and soaps.
Adds moisturising and protective properties.

**WE DO NOT USE PALM OIL IN OUR PRODUCTS BECAUSE FORESTS ARE BEING CUT DOWN AND REPLACED WITH PALM GROVES**

Parabens
These are a group of chemically produced preservatives. Parabens are the most commonly used preservatives in skincare products but have been surrounded by controversy of late. There are chemicals that occur in nature with preservative properties and, although they cannot be harvested directly, we have chosen these for our products were use of a preservative is unavoidable.
**WE DO NOT USE PARABENS IN OUR PRODUCTS**


Patchouli
INCI Name:- Pogostemon Patchouli
An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main supplier is Indonesia.
Has a soft, earthy aroma. Tightens the skin and is therefore good for cracked, oily and mature skin.


Peppermint
INCI Name:- Mentha Piperita
An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main supplier is France.
Has a cooling and invigorating aroma. Excellent for inhaling when travelling.

Petitgrain
INCI Name:- Citrus Aurantium
An essential oil obtained from the leaves of the Orange Tree. Main supplier is Paraguay.
Has a warm, citrus aroma with a hint of floral. Good for oily and dry skin and for treating acne.


Phenoxyethanol
INCI Name:- Phenoxyethanol
Is an anti bacterial agent and is used with Benzyl Alcohol and Potassium Sorbate to form a gentle and eco friendly preservative.

Pine
INCI Name:- Pinus Pumilionissyn
An essential oil obtained from Pine needles. Main supplier is Austria.
Has a distinctive pine aroma with woody and herbaceous undertones. Strongly antiseptic. Effective in inhalations and in oil burners due to its cleansing and deodorising properties.


Potassium Sorbate
INCI Name:- Potassium Sorbate
This forms part of the most eco-friendly preservative generally available along with Benzyl Alcohol and Phenoxyethanol. Potassium sorbate occurs naturally and is a salt of Sorbic Acid. It is used to inhibit the development of moulds and yeasts in skin care products and foods. It is considered to be safe because of its long term safety record and non-toxic profile.

Preservatives
When water is used in a product it is vital to add preservatives in order to stop the growth of fungus and bacteria. Most commercial and cosmetic skin-care products use synthetically produced preservatives for example Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and parabens. These are known to cause skin reactions (allergens) and parabens have been found stored in the body.
Whe use of a preservative is unavoidable we use the most gentle and eco-friendly preservative generally available to us made up of a combination of Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol and Potassium Sorbate. These compounds are all found in nature.


Prostaglandins
These 'Chemical Messengers' are found in every cell of our body & control a myriad of functions including body temperature, inflammation, dilation/constriction of blood vessels & so are key to keeping a healthy balance for our skin. They are not stored but are manufactured from Fatty Acids like Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA). A deficiency of Prostaglandins will result in dryness & loss of suppleness of the skin.


Q


R
Rose de Mai
INCI Name:- Rosa Damascena
An essential oil obtained from the flower petals. Main supplier is Morocco.
Has a distinctive floral aroma. Good for dry and matur
e skin.

Rosehip Seed Oil
INCI Name:- Rosa Mosqueta
Cold pressed from the rosehips (fruits).
Pure Rosehip oil is one of natures best kept secrets containing up to 80% essential fatty acids (40-60% Omega 6, 20-35% Omega 3, 10-20% Omega 9) which help maintain healthy skin.
This wonderful oil also contains natural Tretinoin, a derivative of Vitamin A (Retinol). Tretinoin is proven to aid cell regeneration which in turn helps delay the effects of skin aging and improves acne. It is very moisturising for dry skin & has been reported to reduce the effects of scarring, sun damage & stretch marks.


Rosemary
INCI Name:- Rosmarinus Officinalis
An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main supplier is Morocco.
Has a spicy, minty aroma. Is warming and good for bad circulation in the skin. Good for oily skin and acne. Also aids clear thinking so is often used to help students to focus when studying. Very good for mental fatigue and for tired, overworked muscles.
**DO NOT USE WHEN PREGNANT OR WHERE THERE IS HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE.**


S
Sage
INCI Name:- Salvia Officinalis
An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main supplier is France.
Has a sweet and herbaceous aroma. A warming oil good for muscle fatigue.

Sandalwood
INCI Name:- Santalum Album
An essential oil obtained from the wood. Main supplier is India.
Has a sweet, woody aroma. Has antiseptic properties and is useful for dry and sensitive skin.


Shea Butter
INCI Name:- Butyrospermum Parkii
Pressed out from the crushed stones of the Shea Tree. Main supplier is West Africa.
This is a white, stable fat with a mild smell. It helps skin heal quickly, protects the skin against dehydration and has a natural sun protection factor of 2-3.
Has mild anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. The melting point is 35-38ºC (the skin's temperature).

Sodium Chloride (common salt)
INCI Name:- Sodium Chloride
Used as a thickening agent in shampoos and body soaps.
Excellent in detoxifying baths and as a Scrubbing/Exfoliating Agent.


Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)
An aggressive detergent that may upset the natural balance of the skin.
**WE DO NOT USE SLS IN OUR PRODUCTS**


Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
INCI Name:- Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
An Emulsifier that is very ethical as it doesn't use solvents or chemicals. It is made from vegetable-based components. It is ideal for Hair Conditioners as it makes the hair very soft.

Sunflower Oil
INCI Name:- Helianthus Annus
Cold pressed from the seeds. Main suppliers are Mexico, South America and Southern Europe.
This is a dry oil containing a high level of the Essential Fatty Acid Linolenic Acid (Omega 3). It is a good skin oil that spreads well and is absorbed relatively quickly. We used it in our massage oil and some creams.


T
Talc
INCI Name:- Talc (Magnesium Silicate)

A fine, white powder used for various make-up products as well as a Baby Powder as it absorbs moisture and closes the skin's pores.
It is non-toxic and free from asbestos.

Tea Tree
INCI Name:- Melaleuca Alternifolia

An essential oil obtained from the leaves. Main supplier is Australia.
Has a fresh, sharp and slightly woody aroma. Has anti-bacterial, antiseptic, anti-viral and anti-fungal properties and so is good for most types of skin problems.

Thistle Oil
INCI Name:- Carthamus Tinctorius

Cold pressed from the seeds of the Thistle.
This is a dry, thin oil that is an excellent source of Essential Fatty Acids (Linoleic Acid which is used by the body to produce GLA as well as Omega 3 & 6).
Good for oily skin and all skin conditions.


U


 

V
Vetivert
INCI Name:- Vetiveria Zizanioides
An essential oil obtained from the root. Main supplier is Madagascar.
Has an earthy, smoky aroma so is popular in men's Eau de Colognes. Has astringent properties and so is good for mature skin and will soften chapped and cracked skin.


Vitamin A
INCI Name:- Retinol Palmitate
It is an antioxidant that nourishes the skin, counteracts inflammations and helps prevent skin disorders.
Vitamin A also protects against sunburn. In skin care, Vitamin A has a beneficial effect on dry, scaly skin and helps reduce wrinkles.


Vitamin C
INCI Name:- Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Phosphate
It is an excellent antioxidant that protects against sunburn and reduces pigmentation of the skin.

Vitamin E
INCI Name:- *Tocopherol*
It is an antioxidant but its most important task in cosmetic products is to prevent Fats and Oils from going rancid.
When used in ointments and creams it helps heal cracks and sores in the skin.


Vitamins
Vitamins used for skin and hair care have 2 different purposes.
Firstly, as antioxidants they have an anti-aging effect on the skin as certain vitamins are naturally absorbed through the skin.
Secondly, they prevent Fats and Oils from going rancid either within the product itself or on the skin.

 


W
Wheatgerm Oil
INCI Name:- Triticum Vulgare
Cold pressed from the wheatgerm of whole wheat.
This is a rich oil that is a natural Antioxidant high in Vitamin E.


Witch Hazel
INCI Name:- Hamamelis Virginiana
A Hydrosol obtained from the leaves.
It is a strong antioxidant. Eases bites and stings.


X


Y
Ylang Ylang
INCI Name:- Cananga Odorata
An essential oil obtained from the flowers. Main supplier is Madagascar.
Has a floral, spicy, slightly banana-scented aroma. Stabilises oil from the glands in the skin so is good for oily skin and acne.
Is a calming oil with romantic virtues.


Z